Frequently Asked Questions
Q. where can i go to see english goats?
A. Take a look at our “Attractions with English Goats” page for places which have English Goats. Our “What’s On” page also lists shows and other events where you will see English Goats.
Q. I have some english goats that I no longer want. Can the English Goat breeders Association help?
A. Yes. We would be delighted to help you out. You don’t need to be a member of the Association, and your goats don’t even need to be registered with us. Please contact the secretary via our Contact page and if possible send some pictures so we can confirm they are indeed English or English-type. We will then put you in contact with members keen to offer them a home.
Q. Are there any restrictions or licences required for keeping goats?
A. Yes. You will need to be registered with DEFRA (Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs) as a goat keeper. You will be allocated a Holding Number and a Herd Number. You will need to keep medical and movement records required by law. For details follow this link: www.gov.uk/guidance/register-land-you-use-to-keep-livestock
Q. How much land do I need to keep goats?
A. As much as possible. Goats are browsing animals so like to wander, eating a bit here and a bit there. The larger the area and the greater the variety of forage the better. Having said that, it is possible to keep your goats with a shed and yard for exercise. They need constant access to water, hay, shelter, fresh air and room to exercise. The less forage that is available the more fodder needs to be brought in for the goats.
Most English goats are kept because they make good use of rough forage so they may not settle to a stall-fed regime.
Q. Can I keep one goat as I only have a small paddock and shed?
A. Whilst it is possible to keep a goat on its own, this is not recommended. Goats are herd animals and naturally seek company. The UK Government takes animal welfare seriously and all animals are protected from harm by the Animal Welfare Act 2006. Follow this link to find out what you are required, by law, to provide for goats: Code Of Recommendation For the Welfare of Goats
Q. what must i do in order to look after my goats properly?
A. Goats require access to fresh water, adequate food and shelter at all times. The RSPCA have produced this document which is a good starting point: Goats - An Introduction to Welfare and Ownership. Husbandry tasks include regular foot trimming if they are not kept on rocky terrain, and routine inoculations to protect from clostridial diseases. Feeding goats is very different to feeding other livestock as they naturally browse, rather than graze and will not eat grass that is less than 150mm (6 inches) long. They also require food from different sources.
This leaflet: Appletree Goats - Feeding and Husbandry will give you an idea of the specific requirements for English goats, but bear in mind appetites vary and so the amounts quoted are flexible. If your goat is thin and hungry, offer it more food!
Q. I don’t have a set of scales for weighing my goats. Is there another way to estimate their weight?
A. Yes. Although weighing scales are the most accurate method to weigh your goats, there are other methods using a tape measure. Print off this handy Guide and Table as it will show you how.
Q. Will a goat be a good lawnmower?
A. No. Whilst goats will eat grass, it is not their preferred forage. They much prefer something they can get their teeth into, e.g. thistles, brambles, docks, most types of hedge, trees and, of course, those prize roses!
Q. I have a large back garden. Could I keep a goat tethered so that it can't eat the plants?
A. It is permissible to tether goats but it is not desirable. A tethered animal needs constant access to water and shelter and requires frequent supervision as the animal is at risk of harming itself if it gets tangled up in the tethering lead.
Q. What is the best way to keep goats in a field?
A. The answer to this question is not simple. Such a lot depends on your particular goats, how they were brought up and how they are used to being contained.
Generally speaking a fence with a height of around 1200mm is needed to prevent animals from jumping out, although it has been known for this height to be cleared by a male when there are females the other side and vice versa. Hedges will be eaten. Wooden fences with horizontal rails are great for putting front feet on and craning the neck to reach so it need to be very sturdy.
Stock fencing is frequently used but is also good for standing on if there is something that interests the goat in reaching distance beyond the fence. Young goats that are growing horns can become entangled in the stock fence as they can push their heads through one way, but not easily pull them back, so the width of the gaps between vertical wires in stock fencing is something to research before buying.
Electric netting can work, though it is very easy for the goat to get tangled in if it goes the wrong way trying to get away from it. Two or three strands of electric wire at appropriate heights, e.g.150mm, 450mm and 900mm, or 200mm and 750mm, can work very well. A wooden fence can be protected by running a strand of electric wire round at about 450mm high.
Barbed wire is definitely not a good idea - a nanny with a full udder plus barbed wire equals trouble.
Q. I have a field with a dry stone wall. Is that suitable for my goats?
A. Goat heaven! Something ideal for demonstrating their skill as mountaineers! Your dry stone wall will rapidly become a dry stone heap and the goats will display another facet of their nature - curiosity - by exploring beyond the now flattened boundary.
Q. I just want a goat as a pet not to breed from. Would a male be suitable?
A. Castrated males can make good pets but be aware they can grow quite big and strong, and goats can be stubborn! However, with the right approach they are easy to train and can make very rewarding pets.
Q. Do I have to feed concentrates to my goats if they have plenty of browsing?
A. If your goats have access to plentiful and varied forage which can satisfy all their nutritional requirements, then you only need to feed a minimum amount of concentrates. Growing kids, milking nannies and working males especially need adequate forage/fodder. How much of this is made up of concentrate feed depends on the quality and quantity of other forage (not including hay which essentially provides roughage). English goats are good at converting rough forage so tend to require lower levels of concentrate feed than the larger breeds bred for high milk yields. This means they are more economical for the smallholder or as a 'house goat'.
Q. I’ve seen some Old English Goats. Are they the same as English Goats?
A. No. The Old English Goat is another UK native breed, which at a casual glance can appear similar but it is smaller with a longer, rougher coat. The Old English Goat is lower yielding than the English Goat in its milk production, but is bred to be hardier and more self-sufficient, with the ability to find its own shelter where it is used in out of the way conservation grazing projects. There is more variance in coat colour too and the Old English Goat Society actively promote breeding the Old English Goat with feral goat populations such as the Lynton Goats and the Cheviot Goat to improve its hardy qualities and widen the gene pool of these disparate feral populations.
For more information on the Old English Goat visit their website: www.oldenglishgoats.org.uk
Page updated 27/11/2024
